Chapter 8: Hiding from the Hospitality (Dogubayazıt, Turkey to Sarakhs, Iran)
Leaving the twin peaks of Mount Ararat behind as I cross into IranOne of the countless Iranian drivers who would pull over to hand me food and waterIn Iran, I wanted my money to go back to the local populace, so I mostly stayed in cheap family guesthouses like thisThe simple mud-brick villages of north-western IranThe swirling dust storms which traversed the highlands of north-western IranMeadows of vivid yellow and red wild flowers, something I had not expected in IranFollowing the famous Akbar and my host, Mohammed Reza, into MarandMohammed Reza’s cottage in the mountainsDriving back down from the remote mountain cottage to MarandThe glittering walls in the entrance hall to Mianeh’s main shrineThe glittering ceiling above the main tomb of the same Mianeh shrineBeing invited to share tea with a local family in the Alborz MountainsHassan looking remarkably relaxed after our dicey night-time cycle to KhalkhalAnd me looking a bit more dazed from the experiencePassing through farmland on the way to the Caspian SeaAlong with “Pizza Hat”, this was one of my favourite examples of Iranian copyright infringementThree women in chadors overlooking the Caspian SeaCamping on the shores of the CaspianEnjoying a beautiful sunset over the Caspian at Babolsar BeachOne of the many kind families that invited me into their homes for lunchClimbing away from the dry heat of the Caspian into a more lush landscape in north-east IranAnother of the families that were kind enough to host meMy wild camp in the clearing of Golestan National ParkThe Imam Reza Shrine Complex (cameras were banned, but photos on phones were allowed)The golden dome above Imam Reza’s shrine itselfDescending into the strictly Muslim-only area leading to Imam Reza’s actual shrineI felt privileged, as a non-Muslim, to be witnessing the beauty of these glittering halls
Irregular Adventures 