Chapter 17: Idyllic Isles and Welcoming Tribes (Kuching, Malaysian Borneo to Dili, East Timor)
Following Clément and Matthew into the sunset on our first evening in the coastal swamps and jungles of BorneoA parting shot with the wonderful House of Angels family who had rescued us for the nightCutting through the Bornean jungle on a rollercoaster-like roadThese black scorpions seemed to be attracted the road any time a shower passed, making for a lot of careful swerving to avoid them!Just half the length of the impressive communal entrance hall of the “Rumah Julia” long houseEnjoying breakfast with the family of the chief the next morning (Thanks to Matthew for the photo)Our new friend Charles taking us out to a pub in Miri for some lovely draught GuinnessTrying sago paste, made from the extract of palm stems, a dish unique to BorneoCharles and the huge group of Brunei cyclists who had kindly invited us to this big group dinner (Thanks to Matthew for the photo)Cycling through the early morning mist and into the proper jungle for our first time in BorneoThe humidity in Borneo was quite extreme. Combined with Matthew’s ability to sweat, it meant he a left a pool like this behind him everywhere he stopped!Matthew and Clément zig-zagging while tackling the steep climb away from the “black magic” schoolClément surveying one of the many heavy rainstorms we usually took shelter fromClimbing a tree-house afforded us this view of the organic farm we had spent the night at in this remote jungle region of BorneoClément balancing precariously on a lone beam atop the tree-houseThe bird’s eye view over the jungle which Clément and I were fortunate to witness after climbing the 100-metre telecom towerWhile balancing on two narrow beams, Clément snapped this shot looking back down at me from his dizzying perchLooking down from the top balcony before the long descent back down to ground levelAfter a night of sleep on the Nunukan to Tarakan ferry we walked downstairs to find a herd of cows by our bikesOur first of two amazing sunsets on board the long ferry to SulawesiOur introduction to Sulawesi, a rough dirt track which hugged the coast while passing through remote villagesTwo of the kind fishermen from Kalemo who were carving a new boat out of a tree trunk using only a machete and a planeThe stunning azure waters off the coast of Sulawesi made it feel as if we had died and gone to cycling heavenClément and Matthew traversing the rough, gravel track which had made for such an adventurous start to SulawesiThe inland views of Sulawesi didn’t disappoint either with mountains composing the spine of this wild islandThe scenic inland views continuing as we pedal south towards PaluClément stopping to photograph yet another section of the idyllic tropical coastlineThere are only a handful of places in the world you could have a golden beach this perfect to yourself, but this was the case hereThis welcoming family invited us into their home to share a massive feast of local food (amongst the dishes were cooked jack fruit, pumpkin with coconut milk, sardines and locally grown rice. All accompanied by strong, unfiltered Indonesian coffee).Matthew and Clément with the elder brothers of the familyA striking sunset to end one of our many wonderful days in SulawesiThe Indonesians like their roads STEEPClément and Matthew cycling beneath the hundreds of palm trees which lined the road in the eveningFinally, after one year and four months on the road, I had reached the southern hemisphereArriving at the coast in the late evening in search of somewhere to sleepWe ended up being hosted by the kind Kaili people, and that evening managed to get this group photo with half the village!The half-finished house the Kaili people had allowed us to sleep in. We woke up to the perfect 360 degree view from our mosquito net.The last stretch of the Toli-Toli to Palu coast road which had made for five days of absolutely exceptional cyclingThe paradise continuing south of Palu, with view of tropical waters, coral reefs and tall palm treesBeing assessed by the school nurse who temporarily declared I had Malaria!The ever cheerful kids of SulawesiMatthew admiring the great dawn view over the plains from our perch above some palm oil plantationsClimbing away from the Sulawesi coastline briefly, over a steep, jungle-covered headlandLooking past the rice paddies at some ominous rain clouds hovering over the inland mountains of SulawesiThe sun setting as Matthew pedals southwards along the Sulawesi coast near the village of SombaLooking back inland at the rice paddies near Barru on our second-last evening of cycling in SulawesiThe alignment of the sun timed itself perfectly to provide us with this lovely group shot of our trioThe last shot with Matthew and Clément before they departed on a late-night ferry to Java. We had shared an incredible six weeks together and I would miss their company as I continued alone towards Australia.Joining Ani, Darna and one of their cycling friends for one of many great breakfasts which always helped cheer me up considering the dengue fever which was wreaking havoc on my systemThe incredibly hospitable Dhilah, Ani and Abdoellah who took such great care of me while I recovered from dengue.A parting photo of Mr.Tarsi and his wife, who had so kindly welcomed me into their home on Flores as the effects of dengue hit me yet againFlores was an island of towering volcanoes and stunning beaches. Pictured is the volcano of Mt.Inerie.The postcard-perfect coastline of FloresEnjoying some more mountainous scenery on Flores during the long climb to the village of MoniVisiting the famous multi-coloured Kelimutu crater lakes. As the clouds lifted, I was afforded this view of the two lower crater lakes.The third and the highest of the multi-coloured crater lakesAnd the clouds clearing for a proper view of the two main Kelimutu crater lakesEnjoying the beautiful, narrow coast road which traversed the rugged northern coast of East TimorWatching the sun set on Asia one last time as I finish my journey across this huge continent at Dili’s harbour wall
Irregular Adventures 