Chapter 9: The Modern Challenges of the Silk Road (Sarakhs, Iran to Dushanbe, Tajikistan)

My bike all ready for the beginning of the Turkmen Dash, loaded with 11 litres of water
My bike all ready for the beginning of the Turkmen Dash, loaded with 11 litres of water
57 degrees in the sun, and 43 degrees in the shade
57 degrees in the sun, and 43 degrees in the shade
The long broken up, potholed track across the scrubland
The long broken up, potholed track across the scrubland
This road had long been left to deteriorate, yet it was the quickest and shortest route for me across Turkmenistan
This road had long been left to deteriorate, yet it was the quickest and shortest route for me across Turkmenistan
Scarpering for somewhere to camp as the sun sets and I start traversing bleak marshlands
Scarpering for somewhere to camp as the sun sets and I start traversing bleak marshlands
Portraits of the current president, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, were a common sight all over Turkmenistan
Portraits of the current president, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, were a common sight all over Turkmenistan
Some of the many outrageously fancy buildings and statues in Mary
Some of the many outrageously fancy buildings and statues in Mary
A comparison between the brown, earthy water from the petrol station and the same water after filtering
A comparison between the brown, earthy water from the petrol station and the same water after filtering
A lonely wild camp in the Karakum Desert
A lonely wild camp in the Karakum Desert
Camels wandering along the road in the midst of the desert
Camels wandering along the road in the midst of the desert
The broken tarmac road traversing the Karakum Desert
The broken tarmac road traversing the Karakum Desert
My final wild camp in the Karakum Desert
My final wild camp in the Karakum Desert
A shepherd leading his flock of sheep across the dusty plains of south Uzbekistan
A shepherd leading his flock of sheep across the dusty plains of south Uzbekistan
The black market rate for each of these 1,000 som notes was €0.25. It was nice to have my wallet bulging for once.
The black market rate for each of these 1,000 som notes was €0.25. It was nice to have my wallet bulging for once.
Chor Minor Madrasa, hidden down the backstreets of Bukhara
Chor Minor Madrassah, hidden down the backstreets of Bukhara
The intricate tilework of Nodir Devonbegi Madrassah in Bukhara
The intricate tilework of Nodir Devonbegi Madrassah in Bukhara
The nearby Devonbegi Khanaka in the centre of Bukhara
The nearby Devonbegi Khanaka in the centre of Bukhara
Bukhara's Kalyan mosque and minaret, built all the way back in the 1500s when this Silk Road city was booming
Bukhara’s Kalyan mosque and minaret, built all the way back in the 1500s when this Silk Road city was booming
The stunning facade of Mir-i-Arab Madrassah in Bukhara
The stunning facade of Mir-i-Arab Madrassah in Bukhara
The friendly Uzbek gentlemen who invited me for bread... and vodka
The friendly Uzbek gentlemen who invited me for bread… and vodka
The chattiest of the men demanding one last parting toast!
The chattiest of the men demanding one last parting toast!
Leaving my bike in Qarshi, I took a quick side trip to see the Registan in Samarkand
Leaving my bike in Qarshi, I took a quick side trip to see the Registan in Samarkand
The ornate golden ceiling of one of Samarkand's many stunning madrassahs
The ornate golden ceiling of one of Samarkand’s many stunning madrassahs
Uzbekistan competing with Moldova for the laziest health and safety standards
Uzbekistan competing with Moldova for the laziest health and safety standards
The dry, golden hills of eastern Uzbekistan as I close in on the Tajik border
The dry, golden hills of eastern Uzbekistan as I close in on the Tajik border
The massive feast the kind Uzbek factory workers laid out for us
The massive feast the kind Uzbek factory workers laid out for us
My stained mattress in the Uzbek granny's derelict caravan where I had to fight off her unwanted advances!
My stained mattress in the Uzbek granny’s derelict caravan where I had to fight off her unwanted advances!

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