Chapter 18: The Red Centre (Darwin to Leigh Creek, Australia)

Only a very high risk of wildfires today then
Only a very high risk of wildfires today then
My first of many wild camps out in the remote Australian bush
My first of many wild camps out in the remote Australian bush
The long, straight, lonely road into the middle of the Outback
The long, straight, lonely road into the middle of the Outback
The interior of the pink panther pub in Larrimah. These remote outback pubs were always filled with character.
The interior of the pink panther pub in Larrimah. These remote outback pubs were always filled with character.
The ever present three-trailer road trains, rumbling their way across the outback
The ever present three-trailer road trains, rumbling their way across the outback
The golden hour before sunset always made for some beautiful cycling on the empty plains of the Outback
The golden hour before sunset always made for some beautiful cycling on the empty plains of the Outback
Occasionally I would take a break from wild camping in the Australian bush, and sleep on rest stop picnic benches instead
Occasionally I would take a break from wild camping in the Australian bush, and sleep on rest stop picnic benches instead
Even on the main road through Australia's centre, the Stuart Highway, the gap between food sources could be surprisingly large
Even on the main road through Australia’s centre, the Stuart Highway, the gap between food sources could be surprisingly large
The sun dropping beneath the horizon in the remote Outback as I pedal onwards into the night
The sun dropping beneath the horizon in the remote Outback as I pedal onwards into the night
Sprinting across the dusty plains south of Tennant Creek as a tailwind finally materialises and helps me push out a 186-kilometre day
Sprinting across the dusty plains south of Tennant Creek as a tailwind finally materialises and helps me push out a 186-kilometre day
Reaching an unexpected sight in the middle of this vast desert: Devils Marbles or Karlu Karlu in the language of the Warumungu people
Reaching an unexpected sight in the middle of this vast desert: Devils Marbles or Karlu Karlu in the language of the Warumungu people
Taking a break from my dash through the Outback to explore this small National Park
Taking a break from my dash through the Outback to explore this small National Park
Two of the most eye-catching boulders in the middle of the National Park
Two of the most eye-catching boulders in the middle of the National Park
Cycling into the seemingly endless Outback during golden hour
Cycling into the seemingly endless Outback during golden hour
A rare overnight rain shower turning the fine red sand which had surrounded my wild camp into a deep, sticky red mud
A rare overnight rain shower turning the fine red sand which had surrounded my wild camp into a deep, sticky red mud
A gloomy, overcast day as I pedal towards the Aileron roadhouse
A gloomy, overcast day as I pedal towards the Aileron roadhouse
Reaching the (relatively) large town of Alice Springs, halfway between Darwin and Adelaide, bang in the centre of Australia
Reaching the (relatively) large town of Alice Springs, halfway between Darwin and Adelaide, bang in the centre of Australia
My bicycle loaded up with food and water, ready for the Oodnadatta Track. It weighed more than me here due to some rapid weight-loss caused by having to ration food on a few occasions between Darwin and Marla (Thanks to Anthony for the photo)
My bicycle loaded up with food and water, ready for the Oodnadatta Track. It weighed more than me here due to some rapid weight-loss caused by having to ration food on a few occasions between Darwin and Marla (Thanks to Anthony for the photo)
Being greeted by a sign with some rather scary distances between water/food sources as I turn onto the dirt of the Oodnadatta Track
Being greeted by a sign with some rather scary distances between water/food sources as I turn onto the dirt of the Oodnadatta Track
Crossing a mostly dried up creek as I pedal out into the wilderness
Crossing a mostly dried up creek as I pedal out into the wilderness
The red dirt of the track combined with the deep blue sky made for some beautiful cycling
The red dirt of the track combined with the deep blue sky made for some beautiful cycling
Cruising alone through this stunning landscape with 160 kilometres still to go before the next settlement
Cruising alone through this stunning landscape with 160 kilometres still to go before the next settlement
Although the track made for some gorgeous cycling, rough washboard like this made it quite challenging in places
Although the track made for some gorgeous cycling, rough washboard like this made it quite challenging in places
Usually the landscape here would be parched, red earth but due to recent rains I was treated to the unusual sight of wild flowers
Usually the landscape here would be parched, red earth but due to recent rains I was treated to the unusual sight of wild flowers
Reaching the famous Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta, where I could stock up on food and water after 2.5 days in the wilderness
Reaching the famous Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta, where I could stock up on food and water after 2.5 days in the wilderness
The huge amount of food and water required for the next section (5 days of food and just over 3 days of water)
The huge amount of food and water required for the next section (5 days of food and just over 3 days of water)
Chasing my shadow eastwards, further into the wilderness as the sun begins to set over the Outback
Chasing my shadow eastwards, further into the wilderness as the sun begins to set over the Outback
The beauty, purity and simplicity of cycling this remote track would live long in my memory
The beauty, purity and simplicity of cycling this remote track would live long in my memory
The Oodnadatta Track continuing ever onwards
The Oodnadatta Track continuing ever onwards
I had several close calls with wild emus on my last day into Leigh Creek, and even managed to briefly race alongside one of them, a fitting end to my time in the Outback
I had several close calls with wild emus on my last day into Leigh Creek, and even managed to briefly race alongside one of them, a fitting end to my time in the Outback

2 thoughts

  1. My bowels are crying out in agony while looking at your food options . Not a piece of fresh fruit or vegetables in site! Lol! Lots of sugar though to fuel you onward. I enjoyed the book and look forward to part two

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    1. Haha, yeah, not a big fan of most fruit. I do like vegetables, but it was always a lot of hassle to chop them up after a long day of cycling, hence the pile of sugar and carbs in the above photo! Many thanks! Delighted to hear you enjoyed it. Part Two should hopefully be out for Christmas this year, fingers crossed 🙂

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